Opinion

Anya Schiffrin

Tunisia’s spring

Anya Schiffrin
May 19, 2011 13:47 EDT

It turns out that starting a revolution in the age of social media is a full time occupation. After bringing down their government, launching dozens of new television and radio stations and about 70 new political parties and posting endless leaked documents on Facebook all the while working on rewriting their constitution, many Tunisians are now busy speaking at conferences, answering questions from journalists and politely agreeing to meet the endless flood of people coming to their country to learn more about the revolution.

Recent arrivals include Felipe Gonzalez, who led Spain in the tumultuous years after Franco died, and Lech Walesa, the trade union activist who went on a pro-democracy mission with a delegation from Poland’s foreign ministry to Tunisia in late April. They are excited to see someone else go through the transition they lived through in their own countries, and pass on some lessons they learned.

This week we were generously hosted by this nation that has been through an unimaginable upheaval and is still not at all sure where it will lead. The woman in the government who planned our visit was formerly a banker in New York. She is now working pro bono for the government. We met other Tunisians who dropped everything overseas and moved back home to do their part in building a new country.

It’s overwhelming. Conspiracy theories, anxiety, optimism, a million different explanations of what actually happened, a million different forecasts of how things will turn out. People can’t stop talking, explaining, describing, predicting.

Here is what we saw and heard in Tunis: a country engaged in an active debate about the meaning of democracy, good governance and how to achieve it. A flourishing press that journalists say is badly in need of training in how to handle a freer environment than they ever knew before. A thriving civil society. A country newly discovering problems that had been long hidden — pockets of poverty (still small by international standards — less than 4% at the absolute poverty standard) and a resolution to remove this blight, with the help of the World Bank and the African Development Bank, even as a new democracy is created.

With all of this excitement comes a bit of fear and lots of uncertainty. Things are a bit more chaotic than they were in the days of dictatorship. There  are armored vehicles in front of the Former Ministry of Interior, lots of police, barbed wire, striking cab drivers and political graffiti that says “thank you Facebook.” Bourguiba Avenue is now crowded because of the endless street vendors and although the shopkeepers resent the competition, after what happened last December no one is going to tell a vendor to move on. Just a few feet away is a mobile blood bank where the Tunisians give blood to help the Libyan refugees they are  feeding and housing on top of everything else on their to-do list.

How can one country do so much in just a few months? Can it possibly last? Will it all go bad? The people we spoke with are well educated, so they know the history of revolutions, which do not often go smoothly. They know their strengths — a well-educated population, a strong middle class, institutions and an entrepreneurial class that survived an authoritarian regime, bruised and subdued, but even so, stronger than elsewhere in the Middle East. And they also know their problems. Even before the Great Recession, unemployment had been high. They managed it reasonably well, but now tourism has collapsed and neighboring Libya is at war.

While we in the US got distracted by Donald Trump’s revolting hair, Osama Bin Laden being found a mere three blocks from Pakistan’s version of  West Point, Japan’s tragic earthquake and Gaddafi’s refusal to budge, the Tunisians realized their democratic revolution is in danger for want of funds. They estimate they need $25 billion in aid over the next five years. It’s not much; roughly the same amount of money as the upfront costs of  about two months of US fighting in Iraq.

The Tunisian government has plans for how such aid would be spent. Tunisia needs jobs, tourists, a makeover for their government bureaucracy, help for small businesses and the chance to export their fruits and vegetables to Europe. We need Tunisia to survive because the lesson of this year is that one tiny revolution reverberates throughout the region. And speaking of the revolution, since google and Facebook helped bring it about, why don’t they come up with plans to give innovation prizes to some of the tech savvy young people to help create jobs and fund some startups?

Photo: Libyan refugee children attend classes in tents set up by Tunisians, in Tataouine May 18, 2011. REUTERS/Anis Mili

from The Great Debate:

Does everyone have a price?

Anya Schiffrin
Apr 7, 2011 11:36 EDT

DUBAI/

On Monday I went to Bloomingdales, the Gap and Starbucks but passed on a visit to Magnolia Bakery. Instead I  stopped by the St. Moritz bakery where you can order hot chocolate and sit by a video of a cozy winter  fire that overlooks the indoor ski slope and is just around the corner from the largest candy store in the world, which happens to face an aquarium that occupies an entire wall on one side of the world’s largest shopping malls. This by the way is opposite of what claims to be the world’s largest candystore whose mission statement is to make every day “happier’. Earlier, while exploring the watery depths of the bright Pink Atlantis Hotel (one of the white elephants of the property crash of 2007) I knew it was really the last kingdom because the fish swam around two cracked thrones and other kitschy stone artifacts.

Dubai is utterly overwhelming, the kind of  dystopia that blogger Evgeny Morozov sees in Huxley, a consumeristic paradise where mind-numbing shopping replaces real thought. Most of the I had no idea where I was except that my passport had been stamped Dubai  and many of the mall-going women were shrouded in black. After a few hours I sank into a state of ennuie. Given boatloads of oil money in the 1970s and the chance to build a whole new city, who on earth would decide to build a series of shopping malls?

It’s not like the developers didn’t have ambition, what with the architecture that demands superlatives -- the gondolas, medieval stone houses and soaring illuminated sky scrapers and islands built in absurd never-before-seen configurations. But why not build a museum with, say, the most incredible collection in the world or a university with the finest research laboratories? With so much money why build this Disneyland? And what about the workers who make up most of the population?

Who would go to expensive old Harvey Nichols or French boulangerie Eric Keyzer? The answer is pretty much anyone who can afford it goes not just to shop but to eat. For Arabs living in the region, the malls are closer than a flight to London or New York, they are air conditioned in the sultry summer, they have indoor sports and entertainment facilities, and are safe and family friendly. They are the old village green and the public square that Jurgen Habermas wrote about though not as he imagined it, surely.

The choices are limitless: an ice skating rink, a swimming pool, cinemas, as well as Penhaligon’s, Haagen Daz, California Pizza Kitchen and Nando’s. Even a tiny artsy neighborhood in an even tinier industrial quarter that showed angry Iranian sculptures of war-time prisoners, some held by Iraqis and some by Israelis on their knees with their hands behind their heads. My favorite piece was a video of a row of colorful balloons bobbing on the water that were tied together and shot one by one. This piece was done by a Turkish artist, who also filmed the balloons being executed. Metaphor for the human condition, anyone?

DUBAI/

The locals say shopping malls are precisely why Dubai will never blow up as Egypt, Libya and Tunisia did and as Yemen threatens. Dubai is a safety valve for the whole region. Saudis come here to shop, expats come here to drink, people from places where it’s hard to find a job such as India and East Africans come here to work. Without Dubai, the whole region would be less stable. The city benefits as it always does from instability in the Middle East because like Switzerland it’s a safe haven. Everyone comes here to hide out; real estate prices and hotel occupancies go up at the sign of trouble in Bahrain.

The only people who are not happy are the domestic and construction workers whose appalling treatment has been repeatedly documented by Human Rights Watch. They aren’t given visas even after decades of life here so if they complain they are deported.

The question on everyone’s mind is will Saudi Arabia have the next uprising? I repeatedly heard the same words: Saudi has all the ingredients: high unemployment, high youth unemployment, a vast gap between rich and poor, a surprising amount of poverty and an unsurprising resentment of the royals and their million dollar allowances.

Efforts to finally educate Saudi women will only raise expectations further. It’s got potential for trouble but so far the Saudi government is throwing money around hoping to tamp down the unhappiness. If it succeeds it will be another example of bread and circuses (this time in the form of the Dubai fountain light show and a raisin baguette from Eric Keyzer) winning over the hearts and minds of the masses. Just as it does in much of China and Singapore.

Photos, top to bottom: Youths walk past a shop at Emirates mall in Dubai December 25, 2009. REUTERS/Ahmed Jadallah; Shops in Dubai Mall are reflected in the glass of an aquarium as a diver holding the UAE flag swims past on the country's National Day in Dubai December 2, 2009. REUTERS/Steve Crisp

COMMENT

Was there a reason why you failed to mention that Dubai needed a bailout, of sorts, during the 2008 economic crisis? It invested extravagantly, namely on one of the most extravagant hotel. Fortunately, it did get bailed out.

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