Reuters Blogs

India Masala

Bollywood and culture in an emerging India

October 22nd, 2008

Fashion and Trade - Room for both on the runway

Posted by: Rebecca Tyagi

i.jpgMy previous post introducing the Delhi Fashion Week (DFW), dwelt on its capabilities as a newcomer in India’s fashion field.

Set up after organizers of the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week fell into dispute, the object of the new fashion event on the block stimulated amplified suspense.

As I wrote half way into the DFW, the success of the event was clear.

Shows had run smoothly and spurred good turnouts. I had yet to discover the Wills Lifestyle week and how the two weeks compared.

First impressions at Wills Lifestyle week left me agreeing with my fellow reporter who claimed it would be more “buzzing”. 

circus.jpgHustle and bustle and the sponsors’ busy marketing stalls made for a more exhibitionist and business-orientated atmosphere.

Trade aspects aside, actually attending the shows didn’t earn much difference between the two venues.

Both settings delivered a blend of entertainment, with circus and space themes, a live band, unique choreography, and dramatic make-up. This, all without even mentioning the clothes.

Designers, eager to make their indent in the international market deeper, largely focused on western style as opposed to the traditional Indian wear. 

After all, much of the hype leading up to the fashion weeks has been how India sits within the international sphere of fashion. 

I noted with interest the attire of the audiences. Fashion was high off the runway, as well as on it as spectators were dressed in the latest international trends.

pinkbr.jpgIndian designers are not only working to reach out to the global fashion industry but to satisfy the country’s domestic demands. 

The split of the fashion weeks remains at odds.  It wasn’t all bad and designer Rathore is optimistic.

“It’s a new place but the people are the same. The buyers are split so there is a positive.”

Intertwined with the upbeat mood at the DFW, there were sentiments of sadness as designers felt the dispute has torn apart the Indian fashion family.

“It’s really sad. We are all like a big family. The organizers need to get their act together,” a designer said.

A reader commented in response to my last post ‘But whats the point of holding a separate fashion week in the first place? I guess it just brings down the quality’.

Part of my response to her is not so much the quality as the misfortune of not being able to enjoy the splendor of both fashion events.

If I feel the split as an onlooker, what are the implications for the buyers? 

Industry insider Vishakha Kumar said the numbers of buyers have actually gone up from last season. 

“It hasn’t really affected business. The buyers generally go to the stalls and not the shows,” she said. rt.jpg

This way they can get a better feel of the clothes and their finishings and it allows participation in both fashion weeks.

I think the establishment of a second fashion week in Delhi with the formation of the Fashion Foundation of India could be a major step forward in strengthening the developing industry and making room for new designers.

October 17th, 2008

Delhi fashion week: new kid on the style block

Posted by: Rebecca Tyagi

The clash of catwalks spurred mixed emotions in the build-up to Delhi’s hosting of not one, but two fashion events this week.

tahiliani2.jpgDifferences between organizers of the established Wills Lifestyle India fashion week led to the creation of the Fashion Foundation of India which has launched the Delhi fashion week.

The intriguing question was how would this new fashion week be received? Would its debut have models leaving their footprints on the hearts of fashion fanatics? Or would the established Wills Lifestyle India fashion week wash them away?

Sure, there may have been teething troubles for the new fashion week, which has over 20 designers on its rolls. Sumeet Nair, its main organizer, told Reuters that although it has been stressful and there was some negativity, in the here and now there is a positive atmosphere.

tahiliani1.jpgOver the first three days, the ramp has seen a cocktail of colours, textures, prints, layers, drapes, embroideries and shimmers all incorporated into the latest fashion trends. But what has really stood out is the garments’ wearability.

For designers like Muzaffar Ali, wearability is the key factor and anything too different becomes nothing more than a “fancy dress”.

Wearability, however, does not make for a plain showcase of collections. In the heart of India, the spice is high.

Designer duo Lecoanet and Hemant, wanting to look at something outside of what’s going on in the world, used a rocket launch countdown to propel the models onto the runway adorned in a variety of neutral shades and fluorescents mixed with metallic fabrics and sequined leggings.

hemant2.jpgGarments were held together with belt-like straps and staple effects. Taking ‘out of this world’ a step further, the show ended with an alien boy covered in green body paint taking to the runway.

With an international craze for Indian glitz, we can’t help but mention Abhijeet Khanna — he’s my personal favourite. He made the fusion fashionable. With a line of simple cuts, his use of bright coloured silks garnished with sparkle created a masala mix of eastern and western elements, which is his forte.

Khanna, who trained under renowned Indian designer Manish Arora, has been popular in Europe and his creations will be hitting London’s Harrods in January.

The fun didn’t really stop there. Day three at the fashion week really boosted the energy levels. The opening show, 11.11 by CellDSGN stimulated a standing ovation as the choreographers took the ramp to another level, with models walking the runway backwards.

rathore1.jpgThe atmosphere only heightened further in anticipation for the day’s final show — by renowned designer Rohit Bal. Spectators filled the room like no other show this week, eagerly awaiting his collection.

The ramp was covered in pink feather-like tissue paper. The lights dimed and all eyes turned to the catwalk. As the music built up, what happened next was the unexpected.

Buried beneath the pink paper, a model elegantly and artistically emerged from the floor and took to the ramp. The vibrant oranges and pinks, the vast flower embroidery and the extravagant ruffles, layers and collars, made for a bold and powerful collection.

Overall, here at the Emporio Mall, optimism and a certain coolness resounds.

hemant1.jpgModel Nina Manuel told Reuters the Delhi fashion week is much calmer than the other fashion weeks.

“Everything is well organized and all is running smoothly backstage. It’s nice for the models.”

But a fellow reporter couldn’t wait to get to the India Fashion Week — he claimed it was “more buzzing”.

I don’t know. I haven’t been there yet. But being different may not be a bad thing — perhaps any diversity would only strengthen the Indian fashion industry and widen its international horizons.

I am yet to see what “vogue voyage” the runways of the Wills Lifestyle India fashion week will take me on in the next few days.

I’ll keep you posted.